Your Seattle Weekend: Orca whale watching,14,000 foot volcanoes, and exploring Capitol Hill

By Bill Malcolm

The Pacific Northwest never fails to amaze. And this trip was no exception. I saw two pods of Orca

whales on the ferry from Bainbridge Island to Seattle. The boat cut power to seven knots while we watched the whales.

And “the mountains were out” during my visit meaning I saw Mount Rainier (14,000-plus feet), the

Olympics, and the Cascade Ranges plus Mount Baker to the north on a visit to the Space Needle. Next door at the Seattle Center, they were celebrating Hmong New Year with native dances, a talk on their history, and special foods like papaya salad.

GETTING THERE

I took Alaska Airlines non stop to Seattle. It’s the only remaining regional airline which features great

service with a Northwest flair. Getting around, I took Sound Transit Link light rail (just $3 from the

airport). The light rail line is also great for getting to the gayborhood (Capitol Hill) and to the U District

(home of the University of Washington). Purchase an Orca card which is good on all types of transit.

Seattle has great Amtrak service including down to Portland and up to Vancouver, B.C.

WHAT TO DO

Take the ferry to Bainbridge Island ($9 round trip). Great views of downtown Seattle. Enjoy the new

waterfront on your way where walking paths beautifully landscaped have replaced a double decker

freeway. Just south of downtown is historic Pioneer Square. No visit to Seattle would be complete without a stop at the iconic Pike Place Market. Grab lunch and a fresh carrot juice. Watch the

fish vendors throw the salmon around. Enjoying stunning views of the Olympic Mountains and Puget

Sound over lunch. Take a walk around the beautiful UW campus with great views of Mount Rainier. Hike along Lake Washington and the Mont lake Cut (which runs to Lake Union). Join the Frontrunners Saturdays at Green Lake Park at 9:15 a.m., rain or shine, for a walk around the lake. It’s a friendly group and a great way to meet the locals. They go to brunch afterwards. Or grab a salad at the nearby PCC Market in Green Lake Village.

Enjoy the view of the mountains from the Space Needle in Seattle

Center. The $49 charge is worth it. Then take the Monorail back

downtown. Explore the gayborhood, Capitol Hill, just above downtown via Pike or

Pine Street. Explore the shops and restaurants along Broadway. The undies store (aka UnderU4men) is

fun. You will find them at 709 E Broadway. They also have several art galleries. And enjoy a Dick’s

Deluxe hamburger and fries. Sunday is their farmers market. Then head up to Volunteer Park

for great views of the Olympics as well as home to the Asian Art Museum. I did a lot of “volunteer”

work when I went to the U.

NIGHTLIFE

The Cuff Complex has dancing. Get there before 8 p.m. to avoid the cover. Sunday is now karaoke time.

The Union Bar is friendly and fun. You will find it at 1009 East Union. It has a nice outdoor patio.

Urban hipsters and grunge types will like Pony. Enjoy the sexy photos from a bygone era. Enjoy the patio. The Madison Pub is a lot of fun. You will find it at 1315 E Madison. It has lots of TV screens to watch your favorite sports team. Free lunch during Seahawks games is a plus. Wildrose is the women’s bar and has been around quite a while. Wildrose is the West Coast’s oldest lesbian bar. You will find it at 1021 E Pike.You will find all the bars near Capitol Hill.

WHERE TO STAY

I stayed at the Sheraton Grand (1400 Sixth Avenue) which was right downtown and near the Westlake

Village light rail station and a short walk to Capitol Hill. Because I was with a conference, I did not have to pay the resort fee. Always check for such rip-off fees (aka amenity fee/destination fee) before booking. Bargain hunters will like The Baroness on First Hill and its sister property Inn at Virginia Mason. Both are handy to Capitol Hill and downtown albeit a steep hike up from the Symphony light rail station.

WHERE TO EAT

The Rhein Has at 912 12th Avenue has great beef goulash and brats. I grabbed a salad at the PCC

Community Market in Green Lake (400 NE 71st). When travelling alone, I prefer hot food and salad bars over sit-down restaurants. They are cheaper and healthier. Indeed, Seattle has some of the highest

restaurant prices in the country (New York City and DC notwithstanding. Be sure and have some salmon

during your visit. It’s a Northwest staple.

For More Information/Insider Tips

Seattle is very hilly. Like San Francisco, many of the neighborhoods sit atop hills (Capitol

Hill, Queen Anne). Like San Francisco, it also has a homeless problem and is also very expensive.

Avoid the peak summer tourist season to save on hotel costs. While it rains a lot, there can be

sunny days even in the winter. And it is never bitter cold. The plethora of evergreen trees give it a unique feel.But it gets dark early in the winter being so far north. Seattle Gay News (sgn.org) is

your source for local happening and gay events. Editor Madison sometimes runs my columns.

The Stranger is the alternative weekly. You will be amazed by the stunning setting that is Seattle. I

always enjoy my visits. You will too.

Bill Malcolm’s syndicated LGBTQ travel column appears in select publications around North America

and on line including the IGLTA.org travel blog. He focuses on value and unique experiences. A graduate of the University of Washington, he has a special fondness for the great Pacific Northwest. He pays his own way so unlike other travel writers is not encumbered by receiving freebies. And he avoids hotels and hotel chains with undisclosed rip off resort fees.

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