The Secret’s Out: Why Mérida Is Mexico’s Favorite New Haven for LGBT Expats

By Rick Karlin

Imagine, if you will, a land where LGBTQ people can live freely. Where the temperature averages a balmy 80 degrees and the sun shines for much of the year, only occasionally interrupted by a sun shower. Now imagine that the average cost of living is less than $1,600 a month. All that is possible if you choose to live on the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico. For years, Puerto Vallarta has been a favorite spot for expats from the U.S. But the bargains that could be had as little as 10 years ago are gone. It’s no wonder that LGBTQ people are now moving to the Yucatán, especially the city of Mérida. They are drawn by a combination of high day-to-day safety, a lower cost of living, laws that support LGBTQ people (marriage equality is recognized throughout Mexico), and a welcoming cultural environment. The

region also features modern, affordable healthcare options with many English-speaking medical professionals, and most medications are available at a fraction of the cost in the U.S. Even though cities such as Mérida retain a traditional and Catholic-rooted identity, they feature a thriving, integrated international and local queer community, active social groups, and expanding LGBTQ-inclusive tourism and hospitality efforts. It will help to learn Spanish (and it’s much easier when you’re immersed in the culture), but until you master it, a large percentage of locals also speak English.

The growing number of LGBTQ expats are sometimes surprised to discover the region’s long and

complex history of gender and sexuality. Yucatán’s Maya heritage has its own traditions and cultural

perspectives concerning gender and sexuality, although contemporary attitudes vary widely. Many local

Yucatecans don’t particularly notice or care whether an expat is gay or straight. Experiences among

transgender Yucatecans, however, can vary, and it is best not to assume that everyone has the same

experience.

Mérida’s LGBTQ scene is genuinely active for a city its size. The city hosts an annual Pride march, usually in June, which has grown significantly in porportion and visibility over the years. It draws

participants from across the peninsula and is family-inclusive. LGBTQ bars and clubs exist primarily in the Centro and nearby areas. The scene is smaller than those of Mexico City or Guadalajara

but is solidly entrenched. LGBTQ expats are organized and welcoming to newcomers, with social media

such as Facebook groups and WhatsApp keeping residents up to date.

There isn’t a “gayborhood,” as you might expect in a U.S. city, but certain neighborhoods are favorites

for LGBTQ+ folks. Among those, the most popular is Centro Histórico, which has long been home to a mix of artists, bohemians, and expats. Mérida is also a center of arts and culture. If you’re involved in the arts, you’ll find a well-established and welcoming community of visual artists, musicians, and performers. Check out Teatro Peón Contreras and the numerous galleries in town.

Renovated colonial homes in the Centro are appealing to LGBTQ+ buyers who value the aesthetic and

cultural proximity. Expect property prices to be lower than in the States, although many properties require some renovation, the good news is that skilled tradespeople are available and do quality work for a reasonable wage. García Ginerés and Itzimná are well-established neighborhoods with

tree-lined streets, walkability, café culture, and proximity to both Centro and services to the north. If you

prefer to be away from the hustle and bustle and prefer newer construction, check out San Antonio

Cucul and Montes de Amé. Colonia Alemán also has a strong LGBTQ+ expat community, whose residents appreciate the central location and price accessibility. Mérida is quite flat, making walking a breeze. It is about 30 feet above sea level, and beaches are about a half-hour drive away. The

most popular beaches include Progreso, the biggest beach town near Mérida, and Celestún, west of

Mérida, a popular nature preserve and gathering spot for flamingos (and crocodiles). For a different

adventure, explore the Ruta Puuc, a journey into the Yucatán’s Maya region, with ruins, carvings, and

stories left behind by an ancient civilization. If buying a property seemed out of reach in the U.S., it is still possible in Yucatán, even in Mérida’s popular Centro neighborhood. Same-sex married couples

in Mexico have the same basic property rights as other married couples, although the specifics of

ownership, inheritance, and community property arrangements depend on how the property is

purchased and the applicable legal regime. Unmarried couples can also buy jointly. There are

real estate agents who specialize in working with expats, such as Kip Reynolds

and Brent Kuenning, co-founders of Vida Mérida, Mexico International Real Estate. They can guide you through the realities, both positive and challenging, of relocating to Mexico and help you understand what international buyers need to know before moving there. They help clients navigate contracts, escrow, bank accounts, title insurance, attorneys, special regulations for beachfront property, inspections, and closing services. A recent listing on the Vida Mérida site featured a Two-bedroom, two-anda-half-bath home with two covered parking spaces inside a private gated community with 24-hour security for $240,000. The property was offered fully furnished and included new solar panels, an open-concept layout, and a well-equipped kitchen. Both bedrooms had private full baths, and the home also

included a dedicated laundry area. A two bedroom one and half bath in North Merida’s gated community

Privada Gran Santa Fe Norte was listed at $130k.